What is Calakmul? A window to the jungle, the history and the communities of southern Campeche.
- nnfeldman
- 5 days ago
- 7 min read
Updated: 10 hours ago
Introduction: What most people don't know when they hear "Calakmul".
When we hear "Calakmul", most think of the great Mayan city hidden in the jungle. However, Calakmul is not just an archaeological site, nor a dot on the map.
It is a living, inhabited and diverse territory that extends in the south of Campeche, combining history, jungle and contemporary culture.
Calakmul has three faces:
The Municipality of Calakmul, with its communities, villages and rural life.
The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, a natural jewel of universal value.
And the Archaeological Site of Calakmul, an ancient Mayan city recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Understanding the difference between these three spaces completely changes the visitor's experience: it allows you to travel with awareness, plan better, and discover much more than you imagine upon arrival.
Three faces of the same name: Municipality, Reserve and Archaeological Site.
1. The Municipality of Calakmul: Human Heart of the Region
The municipality of Calakmul is the largest in Campeche and one of the largest in Mexico. Its territory extends over 13,000 square kilometers, covering jungles, rural roads and communities that live in a constant balance with nature.
Around 82 communities live here, many of them formed by families that arrived from different regions of the country, bringing with them accents, customs and knowledge. This mixture is what gives the municipality its identity: a combination of Mayan, Chiapanecan, Yucatecan and mestizo roots, which coexist in a territory where the jungle continues to mark the rhythm of life.
Xpujil, the municipal seat and point of departure
Xpujil is the meeting point of the region: the municipal capital and the place where roads, cultures and travelers converge.
Basic services are concentrated here - gas stations, hotels, restaurants, stores and transportation - making it the ideal base for exploring Calakmul.
From Xpujil depart the roads to the Reserve, the archaeological sites and the communities that promote ecotourism and conservation.
It is the place where one arrives as a visitor, but soon feels part of the daily life of southern Campeche.
The communities that sustain the territory
Beyond Xpujil, dozens of communities scattered throughout the municipality keep alive the relationship between people and the jungle.
Their economy revolves around agriculture, beekeeping, artisan work and community tourism, always with a deep respect for nature.
Each community has a story: workshops where fallen wood is transformed into art, family orchards that perfume the air with tropical fruits, and rural roads where hospitality becomes part of the landscape.
2. The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve: the green lung of the Yucatán Península.
What is it, where is it and why is it so important?
The Calakmul Biosphere Reserve was created in 1989 to protect one of the most important tropical ecosystems in the Americas.
With more than 700,000 hectares, it is home to jaguars, tapirs, howler monkeys, toucans, ocellated turkeys and hundreds of plant species.
The reserve is part of the Mesoamerican Biological Corridor, an extensive system of jungles that connects Mexico, Guatemala and Belize, allowing free mobility of wildlife and ecological continuity throughout the region.
More than a wild territory, Calakmul is a cultural landscape where nature and history intertwine: the result of centuries of human interaction with the environment.
How to get there and what to consider before entering
From Xpujil, take Federal Highway 186 towards Escárcega.
After about 50 kilometers, a signposted turnoff indicates access to the Calakmul Reserve, the point where entrance fees are paid: to the local ejido, to the Reserve (CONANP) and to the Archaeological Site (INAH).
From there, the trail enters the jungle for approximately one hour.
It is important to be prepared: bring water, light food, sufficient gasoline, insect repellent and sunscreen.
There are no services inside the reserve, but there is a natural immensity that compensates for any effort.
What you can visit inside the reserve
Access within the Biosphere Reserve is limited in order to preserve its ecological balance.
Visitors can only visit the Calakmul Archeological Site and two or three interpretive trails, always accompanied by certified guides.
These trails allow bird watching, learning about medicinal plants and discovering how local communities live in harmony with the jungle.
The natural experience: wildlife, jungle and silence
Walking in Calakmul is to feel how time melts away.
The humid air, the sounds of the forest and the shade of the trees create an atmosphere of introspection.
Here, the jungle is not contemplated: it is listened to, breathed and learned.
3. Calakmul Archaeological Site: where time breathes among the stones.
Where it is and how to get there from Xpujil
The Calakmul Archaeological Site is located within the Reserve, south of Campeche.
From Xpujil, take Federal Highway 186 towards Escárcega.
After about 50 kilometers, a clearly marked turnoff marks the access to the Calakmul Reserve, where the corresponding entrance fee must be paid.
The updated costs (November 2025) are:
Mexicans: 300 pesos per person
Foreigners: 405 pesos per person
From this point, you will travel 60 kilometers of jungle road.
The trip takes about an hour, because the road is narrow and winding, and the speed is kept low to protect the wildlife that crosses freely.
During the trip, it is common to see birds, deer or monkeys peeking through the trees.
The journey is not just a route: it is part of the charm.
What to see at the site: temples, stelae and lookouts
Calakmul was one of the great powers of the Mayan world.
The site has more than 6,000 registered structures, including temples, palaces and plazas.
Its two main pyramids dominate the horizon and give the site its name: Calakmul, "the two adjacent mountains".
From the top of Temple II, the highest, the view is unbreathtaking: a sea of jungle as far as the eye can see.
There, silence weighs as much as history.
Duration of the tour, guides and services available
The complete tour of the site takes between three and four hours.
At the entrance to the reserve you will find certified guides who offer specialized tours in archeology, nature and photography.
They are integrated into the visitor's vehicle and accompany them 60 km to the site.
It is advisable to book in advance, as there are few guides available and only some speak English or other languages.
To ensure a comfortable and enriching visit, it is recommended to book with Ka'an Expeditions, a local company that works with certified guides and experts in the region.
Inside the site there are ecological restrooms and rest areas, but no food or beverages are sold.
It is recommended to bring water, snacks and take care of the natural environment by avoiding leaving waste.
The magic of being in a World Heritage Site
Since 2002, the Calakmul Archaeological Site has been part of UNESCO's list of World Cultural Heritage Sites, and since 2014, the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve was incorporated as a Mixed Heritage Site.
This distinction is mainly due to the way in which the ancient Maya interacted with the landscape, modeling it without destroying it.
They created bodies of water to capture rain that still function today, and planted orchards that, after centuries of neglect, continue to produce fruits that feed the local fauna.
In Calakmul, history did not disappear: it became part of the ecosystem.
This harmonious coexistence between culture and nature is the real reason why this place is unique in the world.
Beyond the archaeological site: other treasures of the Municipality of Calakmul
The municipality of Calakmul is an authentic open-air museum.
Each archaeological site has its own particular charm:
Xpujil, with unique architecture and its false towers.
Becán, surrounded by an artificial moat unique in the Maya world.
Chicanná, famous for its zoomorphic façade of the snake's mouth.
Hormiguero, Río Bec and Balam-Kú, hidden jewels in the jungle, where you will probably be the only visitor of the day.
Although some visitors try to see them all in one day, the ideal is to stay at least two or three days to enjoy them at leisure.
One day is barely enough to visit Xpujil, Becán and Chicanná, and hopefully Hormiguero.
Community-based tourism: workshops, caves and authentic experiences
Ejido 20 de Noviembre and its handmade art.
Here visitors can visit the workshops where wood crafts, textiles and honey products are made.
Each piece is a story, and buying directly from the community generates income that strengthens the local economy.
The caves of Ejido Cristóbal Colón: mystery under the ground
A few kilometers from Xpujil, the caves of Cristóbal Colón offer a subway tour guided by local inhabitants.
The rock formations, the echoes and the gloom create a mystical atmosphere that contrasts with the intense light outside.
Why Calakmul deserves more than one night
Those who only visit the archaeological site get an incomplete impression.
Calakmul is much more: people, jungle, culture, silence, humanity.
Staying more than one night allows you to connect with the environment, support local projects and live an authentic experience.
In the end, the traveler who stays two or three days does not only see ruins; he/she lives the jungle, meets its people and becomes, if only for a moment, part of Calakmul.
FAQ - Practical guide for the curious traveler
Where is Calakmul located?
The Municipality of Calakmul is located in the south of the state of Campeche, Mexico, bordering Guatemala.
What is the municipal seat of Calakmul?
Xpujil, where basic services, lodging and transportation are concentrated. It is the starting point for visits to the archaeological site and the Calakmul biosphere reserve.
How many communities does Calakmul have?
Approximately 82 rural communities.
Where is the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve?
Within the municipality of Calakmul, to the south; it covers more than 700,000 hectares of tropical rainforest.
How do I get to the Calakmul archaeological site?
Leaving Xpujil, which is the base for visits to Calakmul, take Federal Highway 186 towards Escarcega for 50km and take the turnoff to the access to the Reserve. For more information read our other article on this subject.
How much time is needed to visit Calakmul?
At least two or three days to enjoy the archaeological site, the reserve and other nearby attractions.
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